EAS Naxou
The Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Naxos (EAS Naxou), founded in 1926 and rapidly growing ever since, is the driving force of the agricultural sector of the island and a powerful engine for its economic growth. Currently, the Union of Agricultural Cooperatives of Naxos counts 26 member cooperatives and a total of 3,274 participating members (farmers, stock farmers).
Cheese making constitutes the main field of activity of EAS Naxou. The Union created its first dairy farm in 1961 and a modern dairy and cheese making facility in the area of Glynado in 1985 that rightfully ensured a place for EAS in the competitive cheese market.
Nowadays, EAS produces principally Graviera Naxou (protected under PDO status) and kefalotyri (a very hard, sheep’s- or goat’s milk cheese with a tangy flavour and a sharp aroma) while it absorbs a total of approximately 12,000 tonnes of milk annually, i.e. over 70% of the local milk production, for its dairy products. EAS is an exemplary confederation with a sound budget and no pending fiscal obligations. Currently, it exports more than 60 tonnes of products and has a well-founded ambitious plan to triple them.
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Organic Islands, founded in Naxos in 2010, is a firm that cultivates, processes, packages and sells organic aromatic plants and herbs. Nikos Hatziandreou, founder of the firm, did not decide to leave Athens and seek a better future in the Greek countryside just because of the economic crisis in Greece.
Nikos, holder of a BA in International Policy and Administration and a MA in Diplomatic Studies with a successful carrier in two multinational consulting firms as a high-ranking executive, came to realize at some point that by working 70 hours a week, he was hardly seeing his family and that his life was passing him by. Without giving it a second thought, he decided to take his wife and two kids away from Athens and move to Naxos, the island where his parents come from. In Naxos, he spent two years occupying posts associated with his profession. However, the family fields gave Nikos the right incentive.
After having conducted all necessary theoretical research and on-site visits to cultivations and several packaging plants throughout Greece and abroad, Nikos founded Organic Islands, the first firm in the Cyclades that cultivates certified organic aromatic and medical plants and herbs.
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Naxian cheeses
In Greek myth, god Apollo, worshipped with special affection by Naxiots, left on the island of Naxos his son Aristaios, who was an excellent cheese maker, to teach the islanders the art of cheese making.
Although tens of centuries have passed since then, Naxos, being an island blessed with fertile plains, abundant water resources, mountains with rich vegetation and endless grazing lands, is still characterized by a particularly developed livestock sector and produces some of the best-known Greek cheeses.
Together with other islands of the Cyclades, Naxos has a long tradition in cow milk cheeses dating back to the rule of the Venetians and their catholic governors who were the first to introduce such foods and their production method to the islands. In the 16th century, the Cyclades were the only region in Greece where dairy cows roamed on its fields, and thus, the inhabitants of these islands were put early on the right track to master the art of cow milk cheese making.
Nowadays, more than 10,000 cows graze on the land of Naxos while there are more than 100,000 free-ranging sheep and goats mostly on the island’s mountainous part, accounting for an annual production of 1,500 tonnes of cheese.
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Spanish Conquistadors conquered Peru in the “New” World, discovered the flavours of the potato, and carried them to Europe in the 15th century. From Spain, the cultivation of potatoes gradually spread to the rest of the countries of Europe and potato soon become the last resort of the have-nots in Europe who were unable to make their own bread, the nobles and the ruling class possessing at the time all the fertile and long stretches of land and the strong animals to draw the plough for wheat cultivation. Potato, on the other hand, thriving in any kind of soil (sloping, poor or rocky), could be also grown at home and, thus, became a tasty and nutritious solution for the poverty-stricken rural population.
It is said that potato started being cultivated on the island of Naxos at the end of the 18th century. However, it was only in 1830 that its cultivation expanded throughout the lowland of Naxos and became one of the most significant produce of the island affording financial growth and prosperity to the rural population.
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Graviera Naxou, a cheese with a sweet buttery flavour, is one of the best Greek graviera cheeses and is considered to be one of Greece’s most beloved table cheeses. Graviera Naxou means graviera of Naxos. In Greek, the word graviera is a transliteration of the Swiss gruyere. Recently added in the rich tapestry of Greek cheeses, graviera was made for the first time in the 20th century in the region of the Peloponnese and soon became known in the hinterland and in Grete where cheese makers succeeded in producing excellent graviera cheese from sheep’s milk.
However, the Cyclades (mostly Naxos, followed by the islands of Tinos and Paros) hold the distinction of being the only place in Greece where graviera cheese is produced exclusively with cow’s milk.
The graviera of Naxos is a pale yellow hard cheese with a compact and soft texture marked by round irregular holes. The cheese is usually made into small heads normally weighing 10 kilos. It has a thin rind formed by the growth of bacteria, which help the cheese to mature.
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Citrus groves, vegetable farms, pasturelands, the olive groves of Tragea, the vineyards at the northern part of the island; the goods provided by the fertile nature of Naxos on the one hand and the produce of the farmers inhabiting the mountain villages of Filoti and Apeiranthos (calf, goats and sheep, dairy products, oil, olives, grapes, honey, citrus fruits, potatoes and other vegetables) on the other hand have formed through their longstanding presence the traditional cuisine of Naxos.
Even though Naxos is not such a large island like Crete for instance, what is most interesting is that the cuisine of Naxos did not used to be uniform. Well before there was a road network on the island to link together the villages of Naxos, the Naxian cuisine was divided into three categories. The cuisine of the coastal regions, where fish and sea food dishes prevailed; the cuisine of the plains where vegetable and cattle dishes had a leading role and were people used butter for cooking since the byres were located in the plains and, finally, the cuisine of the semi-mountainous and mountainous regions where goat and sheep dishes prevailed and where olive oil was used for cooking.
Among the products of the island, the dairy products of Naxos, the potatoes of Naxos and the kitron liqueur (a liqueur made from the leaves of citron tree) are famous and consumed throughout Greece. On the island of Naxos you can taste a long list of savoury dishes.
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The Heraklion Archaeological Museum in Crete is one of the biggest and most noteworthy museums in Greece and among the most significant museums in Europe. The museum houses representative artifacts from all the periods of Cretan prehistory and history, covering a chronological span of over 5,500 years from the Neolithic to the Roman Period. Its Minoan antiquities collection on exhibit is the most significant collection worldwide. The museum is justly considered as the museum of Minoan civilization par excellence.
The museum is located in the center of Heraklion. Built between 1937 and 1940 and designed by Greek architect Patroklos Karantinos, the museum is a significant example of Greece’s modernist architectural and has received a Bauhaus award.
The colours and the materials used in its construction, such as the veined polychrome marbles, recall certain Minoan wall-paintings which imitate marble revetment.
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In Chania, at the bougatsa shop of Iordanis, tables are populated since dawn with Chaniots and people who have just arrived from near-by villages to feast on their favourite bougatsa served on small zinc dishes.
Inspired rhyming verse inscriptions on the walls (sometimes even Cretan couplets) testify that this joint is one of people’s favourites.
“Whenever I come to Chania, I get those sugar cravings.
Eating one whole baking pan of bougatsa Iordanis is the only way to tame them (one baking pan though won’t do the trick)”.
Have a look at this one:
“Expensive labels mean nothing to me, even if it’s an Armani;
but the bougatsa I eat, must always come from Iordanis”.
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Maggiri
The Cretan maggiri is a fresh pasta that resembles a very wide noddle. The pasta dough is rolled out and cut into small squares. Half the pasta is boiled in lamb broth and half pan-fried. Pasta pieces are mixed together and served with anthotyros cheese. This is an exquisite combination of a crunchy and juicy pasta.
I tasted maggiri at the Kritamon Restaurant of Dimitris Mavrakis in the village of Archanes in Crete.
Cretan mezedes, the accompaniment to raki
Mezedes (pl. for mezes) are savoury appetizers offered in small helpings in the traditional cafés (kafeneia) of Greece as an accompaniment to an alcoholic drink. Mezedes, an integral part of Greek cuisine, hold a prominent place in Greek culture, incorporating a deeply rooted tradition, that of sharing food and drink with friends in a no-frills environment.
The word meze comes from the East; it is a Turkish word. In Greece, mezedes are served to accompany ouzo (an aniseed-flavored distilled spirit, the famous drink that turns white when water or ice is added to it), tsipouro (a strong distilled spirit with an alcohol content of 45% made from the residue of crushed grapes) and sometimes, wine, retsina (wine with a delicate aroma of pine on the nose and a pale to golden-yellow colour) and beer. The best place to savour a meze is at the kafeneia. There, mezedes are always served in small plates, since they are not meant to satisfy one’s hunger but rather to prevent the side-effects of drinking on an empty stomach.
In Crete, mezedes accompany raki.
Sfakiani pita (pie)
What about pies? Should you expect to savour delicious pies in Crete? The answer is positive. Certainly! Just like in the rest of Greece, pies occupy a significant part in Cretan cuisine.
Here pies are made with dough, dairy produce – mostly soft white cheeses (myzithra – a whey cheese made from either sheep’s or cow’s whey to which whole milk is sometimes added, xynomizithra – a soft, sour cheese, anthotyro – a soft, young cheese made with the residual whey left over after the production of graviera and the addition of whole milk, pichtogalo Chanion – a soft spreadable cheese made from sheep’s milk or from a combination of sheep’s and goat’s milk. Pichtogalo has a sour taste and a smooth texture and has been granted PDO status), wild herbs (fennel, etc.) and other aromatic herbs growing on the Cretan earth, such as mastic, cumin, bay leaves, cinnamon.
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On the island of Crete, apaki (cured pork), a unique Cretan delicacy, is produced by butchers and many well-known processed meat factories, such as Lambrakis, Markakis and Antonakis. Out of those significant local producers, I chose to meet Michalis Vavourakis, a mechanical engineer from Rethymno. Driven by his love for nature and this faith on organic farming and livestock, Michalis Vavourakis, a man that has adopted a philosophical approach to life, decided to dedicate himself to organic pig raising in his own Vavourakis Farm.
Located on a hilltop in the village of Koksare, in the municipality of Rethymno, Vavourakis Farm stretches over an expanse of 170 square meters. In an unspoiled natural landscape, 20 sows and a population of 200 pigs are raised and bred naturally without the use of hormones or medicaments, fed exclusively with the farm’s crops, grains and roots, wild herbs, thyme and certified cereals.
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Source: www.greekgastronomyguide.gr